L’Homme Idéal

J’ai la flemme de traduire mon avis publié sur basenotes :

It is very difficult to make an opinion because I find it very versatile and somewhat ambiguous in its intentions ; it is nearly as if there were two fragrances in one
Also it gives its best on skin and not on paper or cloth

The first notes smell too much the marketing and not the perfumer’s own inspiration : they are a kind of testosterone burst with all the most masculine notes found in all mainstream fragrances recently released ; this the worst part of the perfume when you spray it on paper or cloth.
Indeed, on paper or cloth, these cloying notes are very tenacious and last for hours without letting the middle notes and drydown to emerge.
Of course, as many consumers will choose their fragrance only smelling the first seconds, it is made on purpose to compare to most mainstreams.

Nevertheless, sprayed on skin, l’Homme Idéal is a completely different beast once the most pungent notes have evaporated ; the head is a little bit messy and you must wait a few minutes to perceive the mix of citrus and herbs (laurel, rosemary), rather dark and bitter and not sparkling and fizzing (could it have been inspired by Heritage ?).
Slowly, a soft tonka with roasted notes and vanilla appears (l’Instant is not far) ; soft but not too sweet ; although present, the almond note is very discrete.
Then a beautiful leather emerges (very reminding of Habit Rouge), surrounded by a vetiver note (the indian vetiver one in the drydown of L’eau boisée) and vanilla. At this time, the rosemary note comes back rather clearly.
For a long time, the middle notes and the drydown mix together.
Excepting the head notes, the materials are of excellent quality.

It appears far more complex in its evolution than Guerlain Homme, which was rather straightforward. It shows that Thierry wasser has integrated all the Guerlain codes (his work on old formulas !).
Of course it is very modern, and Guerlain nostalgics will dislike it.